Luke Derrick is redefining British menswear with a quiet rebellion. His label, DERRICK, is an exploration of tailoring with ease, a push against the rigidity often associated with classic menswear. His design philosophy is built on contradiction—lazy elegance, reluctant machismo, the tension between casual and refined.
Producing all his clothes between his Bethnal Green studio and a sampling studio in Haringey, Derrick is deeply involved in the making process. His respect for craft is rooted in experience—trained at Brioni, Alexander McQueen, Dunhill, and Savile Row, he understands tradition but refuses to be confined by it. His approach is instinctive, shaped by a childhood in Oxford’s elite institutions, where he rowed, wore uniforms, and learned to navigate hyper-masculine spaces.
His style icons are men who wear the clothes, not the other way around. And while the future is uncertain for most young designers—especially those not chasing trends—Derrick knows that legacy isn’t built on trends. It’s built on integrity, precision, and a deep understanding of how men actually want to dress.
Sneaking back into CSM via various means to get access to that library again. A real research mecca that you don’t quite appreciate until you lose access to it. My hometown of Oxford. My mum is there. If ever London/life/existence itself becomes too much, an easy and cheap 100 minutes on the bus and I’m given reprieve from it for a day or weekend. Greener pastures. I was raised there, and by the time I was 19 I couldn’t get away from it fast enough. Now it’s come back around and I realise how lucky I am to have somewhere near to press the reset button. Good museums. Good pubs. A slower pace when needed. Oxfams + charity shops. When everyone is finding their inspiration on their phones and laptops, everyone is fed the same images by the same algorithms. The same tumblr pages, the same pinterest boards; and because we’re all living in the same zeitgeist, we all interpret those images in the same way, and come up with the same outcomes. It’s incredibly boring and lazy. The only way to get out of this loop is to get in front of real books. When I’m not sneaking into the aforementioned CSM library, I’m sifting through any charity shop I encounter. You never quite know what might be found out there, so embrace the hunt.
Masto a testaccio – Rome. A really formative period for me, my work, and finding myself was my time was working for Brioni in Rome in 2018. I could endlessly list places, but… a really special place to eat is Masto. The sort of place where there’s five tables and by the end of the meal you know everyone. The sort of place where you go once or twice and they remember you a year later. Ham, Cheese, pasta. Veg. Wine. More wine. Cheap. Go.
St John Smithfield London - I’d eat there all the time if I could. I eat there seldom because I can’t. Goals for future. Some people skim over the braver bits of the menu and give it a hard pass. For me, it’s the most stylish restaurant in London. So much work to create such a specific shade of rigorously informal atmosphere, that somehow magically doesn’t ever dip over into pretence. “No bullshit” as an art form.
Unmarked Blue (or is it black now? Door w/ bouncer on the end of Greek Street) The last bastion of old Soho. Never intend to go there, always end up there, never let down. I won’t say any more: go in blind.
Honestly, I barely ever buy anything in stores, and haven’t done for over half a decade. I live on ebay! The best stuff is all out there, waiting to be found on it. Nearly of my favourite vintage garments and designers are all from the past, and so where else would I look for them? That specific 90’s British army cargo. That one elderly(?) seller, based in Philadelphia, of the best dad caps I’ve ever seen. That one seller of cult German design magazines… and so on. No I’m not telling you their names. Hunt for yourself.
Walking, headphones in. By day, by night, wherever, whatever, exploring. The most fun aspect of running my own label for is the social aspect – the relentless merrigoround of zoom calls with collaborators, coffee networking dates and working rooms. But when I’m away from all that, walking around alone, ideally in somewhere I’ve never been is really grounding and resets all my creative wiring. Take the longer route to the office. Go by foot. Take a left when you were supposed to take a right. Be soundtracked to whatever you’re listening to.
Exercise. Usually rowing machine, sometimes cycling or circuits. Sometimes there’s something or even someone that’s irked you so much that just internally thinking your way to solace doesn’t quite do it. Exercise gives me a space to let whatever it is all out and start the day well and in a positive mindset.
Napping. Wildly underrated. Even a 5 minuter between tasks or errands can make a huge difference in tackling a long day and staying sharp. For me, anyway. If I’m about to start working very late, I’m a big proponent of what I’ve dubbed the “napucino”. Have a coffee, then immediately take a 20 minute or so nap before the caffeine kicks in. Then ride the wave as the coffee kicks in as you rise out of it. By putting its name to writing I hope it enters the annals of cultural and nap-based discourse.
Books—The art of Metal Gear Solid I–IV – Yoji Shinkawa. The games of Hideo Kojima, and the works of his concept artist Yoji Shinkawa have been a huge influence for me ever since I first picked up Metal Gear Solid 2 too young as an 8 year old. Outrageously thorough, referenced, and beautiful.
If… Lindsay Anderson, 1968—Another beautifully filmed on rebellion and subverting tradition. The film that got Malcolm McDowell his role in A Clockwork Orange.
Bladerunner – 1982—Seen it 10’s of times. Can and will watch it 10’s of times more. It has a universe and worldbuilding unlike anything else. Also honourable mention to the 1997 point-and-click adventure videogame of the same name and setting that came with my mum’s first computer; I played the now cult classic game as a kid years before I knew even of the existence of the film, to the extent I thought the film was a remake of the videogame. I was hooked.
London I struggle with, as it’s now so stupidly expensive to see anything, but… Ordovas– Savile Row, London—Between this one, and Hauser & Wirth on the corner of Conduit Street, you have a pair of free entry galleries that have deceptively high calibre exhibitions.
I saw something the last year on Francis Bacon and Peter Beard on a whim that really grabbed me by the scruff of the neck, and I probably won’t forget it.
Phillips Auction House – Mayfair—Time it right and you can really see incredible stuff here before it goes under the hammer. Go up a few floors and get a free coffee + biscuit as you walk through.
Current man crush is Marco Pierre White, his career, his wisdom. Essential reading is his first book turned memoir White Heat from his early days in the 80’s. Incredible photos + portraits by Bob Carlos Clarke. Not like anything else. Essential watching is his talk at the Oxford union on youtube from 6 years ago. One hour of incredible life story. Impossibly inspiring and thought provoking stuff.
Theaster Gates—Recently was introduced to this artist via my studio-mate. What a man. Amazing talker, beautiful eclectic work. Lots of great stuff on youtube, great instagram. Have a binge.
Hunter S Thompson—I’ve been digesting this man’s work and life perspective for about a year or two now. Relentlessly singular vision of America reflected in his prose and personal style. A man ahead of his time. I’m steadily working through his essays.
Individual songs are incredibly hard, as I’m constantly plugged into stuff and music is a huge deal for me, but at the moment:
Köln, January 24, 1975, Pt. 1 – Live – Keith Jarrett
Discovered this only this year, and the opening 15 minutes of Jarrett’s improvised hour on a broken piano in ’70s Köln continue to blow me away. The story behind it—overcoming creative limitations to make something impossible—is a real rallying cry to persevere with what I’m doing.
Red Rock Riviera – Sea Power
From the video game Disco Elysium, which I played and fell in love with. Haunting and beautiful. One of the best soundtracks to one of my favourite games.
Stolen Dog – Burial
A night walk song. A pattern-cutting-late-at-night song. A song that just travels with me. I can loop this endlessly.
The late great Richard Avedon. I recently saw a long form interview with him from 1993 on youtube; I have been surrounded by his photography for years, but a thought came into my head one evening realised I’d never heard him talk. Turns out, he’s beautifully articulate, reflective, humble, and has been in the presence of a disproportionate amount of the individuals and moments that shaped the 20th Century in the West. I’d appreciate his wisdom.
I don’t know; I struggle with this question a bit. I think I’m a pretty open book. I try and communicate my passions in my work and on social. I do this to give context to my work, and the focus should indeed be on my work first, me second. I think in today’s age not enough people are actually held accountable to the quality of their output, as everything is so focused at the moment around the cults of internet personalities. Judge me on my clothes!